Application of natural plant dye berberine in dyeing of wool fabric
Today, with the increasing awareness of human environmental protection and health care, natural dyes once again enter people's field of vision [1~3]. The natural botanical drug, Coptis, is a famous Chinese herbal medicine and a commonly used yellow plant dye. Rhizome of Rhizoma Coptidis contains a variety of alkaloids, the main component of which is berberine, which belongs to quaternary ammonium alkaloids and is the main source of coptis and pigments [4,5]. In this paper, the wool fabric was dyed with Coptidis Rhizoma extract, and the main factors affecting the dyeing effect of Coptis chinensis were analyzed by orthogonal test of direct dyeing and pre-mord dyeing, and single factor test of direct dyeing to determine the appropriate staining method.
1 Experimental part
1.1 Test material Fabric: Wool fabric (twill, 200g/m2)
Drugs: Coptis, sodium bisulfate, acetic acid, copper sulfate, ferrous sulfate, potassium aluminum sulfate.
1.2 Instrument
UV-2550 UV-Vis spectrophotometer (with integrating sphere and color software), SW-8A wash fastness tester, Y571 rub fastness tester.
1.3 Test methods
1.3.1 Dyeing liquid extraction Weigh 5g berberine, soak for 60min, add water 500mL, decoct for 50min, then filter, add the same amount of water to the filter residue and decoct again, filter, combine the two filtrates, add water to 1400mL as a dye solution. The concentration of the dye solution is set to X.
1.3.2 Direct dyeing (1) Direct dyeing Orthogonal test The L9 (34) orthogonal test was carried out according to Table 1 at a three-level level with a bath ratio of 1:200. The optimum process for direct dyeing was selected according to the color difference of the dyed fabric.
(2) Direct dyeing single factor test was conducted to analyze the influence of various factors in direct dyeing on the color difference of the dyeing of Coptis chinensis. The specific test scheme is shown in Table 2.
1.3.3 Pre-mord dyeing The woven fabric is pre-dyed and dyed with ferrous sulfate (iron salt), aluminum sulfate potassium (aluminum salt) and copper sulfate (copper salt) as mordant. The cross-test protocol is shown in Table 3, and other dyeing conditions are the same as the direct staining.
1.3.4 Determination of color eigenvalues ​​Color eigenvalues ​​were determined using a UV-2550 UV-Vis spectrophotometer with accessories such as integrating spheres and color analysis software. The ΔE value indicates the color difference size; L* represents the brightness value; c* represents the chroma value, the larger the value, the more pure the color; the a* represents the reddish or greenish value (+a*, reddish; -a*) , greenish); b* represents the yellowish or bluish size (+b*, yellowish; -b*, bluish); H0 represents the hue angle.
1.3.5 Determination of color fastness The rubbing fastness of dyed wool fabric is determined according to GB/T 3920-1997, and the soaping fastness is determined according to GB/T 3921.1-1997.
2 Conclusions and discussion
2.1 Direct dyeing process The orthogonal test results of the selected direct dyeing of Coptis are shown in Table 4.
The results of visual analysis showed that the pH value was most significant in the direct staining test, while the dyeing time, temperature and concentration were not significantly different. Berberine is a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic dye which can form a salt bond with a negatively charged fiber in a dyebath. As the acidity of the dye solution weakens, the negative charge of the surface of the wool fabric increases, thereby adsorbing more dye. , resulting in an increase in the color depth of the fabric.
2.2.1 Effect of pH on chromatic aberration The above orthogonal test analysis showed that the pH value had the greatest influence on the dyeing, and the single factor analysis was carried out. The results are shown in Fig. 1.
It can be seen from Fig. 1 that the acidity and alkalinity of the dyeing solution have a significant effect on the dyeing results. The alkaline condition is more conducive to the dyeing of the wool fabric by the berberine. However, considering the poor alkali resistance of the protein fiber, the pH of the dyeing solution should not be too high. .
2.2.2 Effect of Dyeing Time on Chromatic Aberration The effect of Dyeing Time on the color eigenvalue of woven woven fabric of Coptis chinensis is shown in Figure 2.
It can be seen from the figure that the chromatic aberration changes greatly within 30 minutes from the beginning, and then tends to be stable. The results show that the coptis has better directness to the wool fabric, and the dyeing is faster, and the dyeing balance can be achieved in a shorter time.
2.2.3 Effect of dyeing temperature on chromatic aberration Different dyeing temperatures have a considerable influence on dyeing. The test results are shown in Fig. 3.
Figure 3 shows that when the dyeing temperature reaches 60 ° C, the color difference of the dyed fabric gradually decreases as the temperature increases, so that the dyeing can be performed at a lower temperature.
2.2.4 Effect of dye liquor concentration on color difference In this test, the influence of dye liquor concentration on the dyeing result is relatively small, and the color difference value (ΔE) at different dyeing concentrations is shown in Fig. 4.
It can be seen from Fig. 4 that as the concentration of the dye solution increases, the chromatic aberration of the fabric also gradually increases. Therefore, in the test conditions, the dye solution having the concentration X should be selected for dyeing.
According to the results of orthogonal test and single factor test, the suitable scheme for direct staining is: pH7; time 50min; temperature 70 °C; concentration is X.
2.3 The pre-munination orthogonal test results and the visual analysis of the pre-mord dyeing process are shown in Table 5.
It can be seen from the results in the table that the temperature is the most significant factor affecting the pre-mordation effect of the three mordants, and the pre-media treatment time and the mordant dosage are second. For iron salts and aluminum salts, the mordant time has a significant effect on the amount of mordant, while the copper salt is the opposite. Compared with the aluminum salt and the copper salt, the deepening effect of the iron salt is more obvious. The optimum process conditions for pre-mord dyeing are:
2.4 Effect of dyeing method on color eigenvalues ​​Compare the color eigenvalues ​​of dyed samples under the optimal scheme. The results are shown in Table 6.
The results in Table 6 indicate that the mordant has a significant effect on the yellow-dyed fabric (the color difference ΔE is significantly increased). The reddish value a* of each pre-mord dyed fabric is increased, especially for iron salt mordant fabrics. In addition, after the pre-media treatment, the chroma value c*, the yellowish value b* is increased, and the brightness value L* and the hue angle H0 are decreasing.
2.5 Color fastness Determination The rubbing fastness and soaping fastness of direct dyeing and pre-mord dyed fabrics under optimum conditions are shown in Table 7.
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